How to Style a Dinner Suit for Different Occasions

What makes a typical Dinner Suit?

When it comes to formal wear there tend to be ‘unspoken’ rules about what is acceptable. A dinner suit is characterised by:

Barathea cloth with satin trim

No vents (splits down rear of jacket)

One button

Peak/shawl lapel in contrasting black satin

Crisp white cotton shirt

Bow tie

Pleated trousers with a soldier stripe

Cummerbund

Maybe you've caught an eye for a classic dinner suit from their stylish appearance in the James Bond series; the black tuxedo with a silk peak lapel in Casino Royale (2006) or the tux featuring a shawl lapel in No Time To Die (2021).

However, dinner suits don't have to stick to these classic styles, and they're certainly not just for black-tie events or channeling your inner James Bond. If you love the timeless shape of a dinner suit but want to jazz it up to match your personal style, read on…

Re-defining Style, where Traditional Meets Personal Flair

As fashion becomes more personalised and less harshly categorised, many people are opting for independent tailors to create custom pieces for a range of occasions. According to The Business of Fashion, consumers rely on these brands for advice on their overall wardrobe, seeking additional personalised touches, whether it’s for dressing up or down.

This is evident in the King & Allen community, with our clients adding their twist on contemporary dinner suit styles, experimenting with colours, cuts and cloths. From rich blues and striking greens, to cropped jackets and oversized lapels, the dinner suit has evolved into a canvas for self-expression. Whether you’re adding a pop of colour with a bow tie or experimenting with unconventional jacket styles, the dinner suit now offers endless possibilities for customisation while maintaining its timeless elegance.

A Sharp Choice for a Wedding

Whether it’s your wedding or you’re a guest, it’s fun to play around with colours and styles that you couldn't wear to a black tie or formal event with a strict dress code.

We love hearing how our clients are making their dinner suits their own on their special day. Here’s a peek at what our client Lj had to say about adding a personal touch to her wedding attire:

“I always wanted a dinner suit for my wedding as I love the classic look. I chose the colour long before the style as I knew the dark green would make me stand out and really compliment my features. A cropped dinner jacket for me was a definite for a feminine twist. At King & Allen, I met Karl and told him my vision for the suit. Straight away I knew I had come to the right place. It was so fun to create my suit from scratch. From picking the fabrics, to trying it on and feeling it come to life step by step.”

- K&A Client Lj -

The main twist that Lj chose for her dinner suit was a sharp cropped cut, which positioned the end of the jacket at the narrowest part of the waist, accentuating her natural curve. The multiple buttons ascending up the sides of the lapel were a nice deviation away from the classic one-button jacket. Lj’s chosen cloth was unique, with an emerald green palette and velvet bow tie. The contrasting lapel colour of a typical dinner jacket was retained, with Lj opting for a satin peak lapel to contrast the jacket cloth.

Dressing it Down

“People are looking to dress down their suits in line with the decline of office wear that resulted from COVID-19 normalising working from home” says King & Allen tailoring consultant Cat, “A trend I’ve spotted is wearing traditional dinner shirts that have studs instead of buttons, with a normal suit jacket that’s more casual than a dinner jacket.”

As noted by The Business of Fashion*, people are "reimagining tailoring for a more casual world”. Here are some ways you can style your dinner suit to achieve a more relaxed look:

Swap the Cummerbund for a Waistcoat

The cummerbund, worn to cover the waistline, is a popular feature of a dinner suit. Therefore, opting for a knit vest or a waistcoat in a lighter or softer fabric instead would create an effortless look that’s versatile for less formal occasions.

Switch the Cloth

Sticking to a Barathea cloth, the characteristic fabric for a dinner suit, is recommended to keep the structure and elegance of the suit. However, playing around with colour is always a fun idea. A lot of our clients pick soft creams or rich blues.

Get Creative with the Tie

Typically you would wear a skinny ivory or satin black bow tie with a dinner suit. Instead, experiment with a more casual cloth or change to a tie with a windsor knot or schoolboy knot. You could even go tie-less for a much more casual look.

Play with the Lapels

A shawl lapel is a nice touch to keep the jacket reflective of a classic smoking jacket but adds a softer look than a sharp peak lapel. If you want to be bold, try a velvet lapel to add a luxurious yet unique twist.

Change the Length

Try a cropped fit, like Lj’s below, to give it a more modern feel without changing the entire look of the suit.

If you're interested in our bespoke dinner suit styles, browse our formalwear gallery or explore our range of warm wool fabrics here.

*Business of fashion -The Unlikely Return of Bespoke Suiting, Explained
https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/the-unlikely-return-of-bespoke-suiting-explained/