Find Your Fit: Tailoring for Chest Binders

For those not familiar… What is a Binder?

A binder is an undergarment designed to flatten the chest area by reducing the appearance of breast tissue. It's a personal choice to wear a binder given one’s individual preferences and what makes them feel most comfortable. 

Binders are a popular choice in the LGBTQ+ community, providing vital support and comfort for those who identify as transgender, non-binary and gender fluid. A binder can be  an alternative to readily-available commercial shapewear, helping people feel like themselves.

Wearing a binder can be positive in increasing self-esteem. It’s important for us at King & Allen to ensure that all of our clients feel comfortable and supported during their fittings, ultimately helping them find their perfect suit with confidence.

Is it uncomfortable to wear a Binder under a suit?

No, not if the binder itself is comfortable and the suit is fitted properly

…But it's natural to feel anxious before getting a suit, especially when mainstream clothing is manufactured to fit cisgender. McGuire Fashion Studies conducted research on ready-to-wear clothing*, showing that traditional fit and sizing systems do not meet the needs of all people, with 50% to 80% of respondents being dissatisfied with the fit of their ready-to-wear clothing.

Why is it different with King & Allen tailored suits?

We do not tailor to a standardised system as will be found with many other tailors. We are experts in our field and do not sell off-the-peg styles. Instead, we are able to create templates that fit your body, enabling us to craft every suit to the client’s specific needs.

First, be comfortable in the Binder

In order to create the best fitting suit, it’s important to first be comfortable in the binder itself. If a binder is too small or made from the wrong material it may cause discomfort such as back, chest or rib pain. The McGurie research study* found that choosing less restrictive binding methods can reduce negative side effects, such as avoiding elastic bandages, duct tape or plastic wrap.

Should I wear a Binder during the tailoring process?

Yes, absolutely. We encourage this if you intend to wear a binder with your finished suit. We are experienced in tailoring for people that wear binders and are always available to provide advice or answers. As each individual binder has a different compression, we advise you to wear the same binder throughout the process to ensure the best possible fit. If you plan on using tape, or prefer wearing a sports bra, please bring it to the consultation.

Comedian Sofie Hagen wrote a few words about their experience wearing a binder during the tailoring process. Sofie created a lovely red three-piece suit with K&A consultant Harmony.

"When I wore a binder to my suit fitting at King & Allen, I wasn't sure what to expect. I guess I'm always a bit nervous that it'll be commented on or questioned. I didn't know if I would be told that I'd have to take it off, since we're doing a suit fitting. How wrong I was to worry! I was treated with so much respect, care and understanding. I felt welcome. Any concerns I had were answered with warmth and patience. I am so grateful that places like King & Allen exist. I now tell all my trans and queer friends looking for suits to go there. I say to them… trust me, you'll feel so hot!"

- Sofie Hagen -

Do you need to let your consultant know in advance that you wear a binder?

Only if you want to. If you’d like to mention it in advance, you can reach out to your consultant to discuss any concerns or preferences you may have. Alternatively, if you’d prefer to discuss it in person at your consultation, the environment is designed to be a safe space for you to do so. All of our consultants are trained to recognise and accommodate your needs.

Can I bring other people to the consultation?

We welcome you to bring your parents, friends or anyone you would like to bring with you. A lot of our clients bring someone with them, and we tend to find that others can help if you're uncomfortable talking. It's also great to get an opinion on your suit styling from someone who knows you best!

Will I see the same consultant throughout the process?

Yes. You will have one point of contact throughout the whole process from initial consultation, to fitting, to alterations.

Will there be other people in the room?

We typically take your measurements in front of a large mirror in the main area of the store, giving you plenty of space to move comfortably and envision what the suit will look like. Each of our stores has a fitting room or private fitting space. If you have anxiety about being measured in front of others, you can call in advance to request a private area.

Tailoring should be an empowering experience. With our specialist guidance and understanding approach, we’re confident that you'll find your fit.

If you have any other questions or need some extra advice please call us on 0330 053 6776, email us at info@kingandallen.co.uk or chat with us on WhatsApp.

* Clothing Fit Issues for Trans People 2918 written by Andrew Reilly, Jory M. Catalpa, and Jenifer K. McGuire and published by McGuire Fashion Studies. Available at: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/591218e0f7e0abcf6ce40add/t/5fd910d8cadc6f46e5457bd1/1608061162869/Clothing_Fit_Issues_For_Trans_People_Reilly_Catalpa_McGuire_Fashion_Studies.pdf