10 Tailoring Terms You’ll Hear in Every Showroom

1. Canvassing

“This jacket has a full canvas”

The ‘Canvas’ is one of the layers inside a tailored jacket. It sits between the outer cloth and the lining and helps give the jacket its structure and shape - more canvassing generally means more shape. When you hear a tailor talk about the types of canvas, they're referring to how much of the jacket it covers. There are two main approaches you may hear about: full canvas and half canvas.

Full canvas 

Runs throughout the jacket. This allows the jacket to develop a natural drape and shape as it is worn.

Half canvas 

Uses canvas through the chest and lapels, and then leaves the lower section fused. It offers a balance between the qualities of canvas construction and value.

Think of canvassing as what is happening inside your jacket. It isn't something you necessarily see from the outside, but it contributes to the way the jacket sits and holds its shape.

2. Cloth Weight

“This is a mid-weight cloth”

Cloth weight simply refers to how heavy the fabric is, and is usually measured in ounces or grams. The weight of a cloth can affect how a suit feels, moves and hangs, as well as how suitable it is for different temperatures and occasions.

Lightweight cloths

Lightweight cloths (7–9oz) are generally suited to warmer weather. They tend to feel comfortable and breathable and can be a good choice for travel and summer events. They can, however, wrinkle more easily and often have a softer drape.

Examples include Holland & Sherry Crispaire and Cape Horn Lightweight.

Midweight cloths

Midweight cloths (9–11oz) are a versatile choice and are particularly well suited to year-round wear in the UK. They offer a balance between comfort and durability, making them popular for business and occasion suits.

Examples include Holland & Sherry City of London and Dormeuil Millennial.

Heavyweight cloths

Heavyweight cloths (12oz+) offer more structure and a cleaner drape. They are particularly suited to autumn and winter tailoring and tend to be durable and resistant to creasing.

Examples include Classic Worsted Flannel by Huddersfield Fine Worsteds and Holland & Sherry flannel.

It's worth remembering that cloth weight doesn't solely determine how warm a fabric feels; the weave also plays an important role.

3. Weave

Huddersfield Fine Worsted's Bamboo collection combines bamboo fibres with cloth to create a fabric that's exceptionally soft and highly breathable.

Why it's great in a heatwave

Bamboo feels naturally cool against the skin and helps regulate body temperature by drawing moisture away from the body. This makes it particularly comfortable during humid summer days when staying dry becomes just as important as staying cool.

What makes it work

Bamboo fibres naturally absorb moisture before releasing it into the air, helping prevent the fabric from feeling damp during prolonged wear. It’s silky softness also creates a cloth that's comfortable from morning until evening.

Best for: Summer business wear, weddings and clients looking for a breathable vegan fabric.

4. Airesco

One of Holland & Sherry's signature summer collections, Airesco was specifically designed to maximise airflow without sacrificing the structure of a tailored suit.

Why it's great in a heatwave

Thanks to its exceptionally open weave, Airesco is one of the coolest suiting cloths available. It allows constant airflow through the fabric, making it particularly comfortable during long summer events where you'll be spending hours outdoors.

What makes it work

Airesco's defining feature is its highly open weave. Tiny gaps between the yarns allow warm air to escape while cooler air circulates more freely through the cloth. Despite this construction, the fabric still has enough support to hold it’s shape.

Best for: Outdoor weddings, garden parties and summer events spent in the heat.

5. Cape Horn Lightweight

Cape Horn Lightweight is designed for those who want the appearance of a classic business suit without a heavier feel.

Why it's great in a heatwave

The lightweight wool creates a comfortable feel, helping to prevent the suit from feeling heavy or restrictive in warmer weather, while the worsted finish maintains a polished  appearance. 

What makes it work

Rather than relying on a particularly open weave, Cape Horn achieves its comfort through a reduced cloth weight. This gives it the familiar drape and finish of classic worsted wool, while removing some of the bulk.

Best for: Business meetings, office wear and occasions where a more formal look is preferred.

6. Crispaire

Crispaire has become one of Holland & Sherry's best-known performance cloths, combining excellent breathability and shape retention.

Why it's great in a heatwave

Its crisp finish naturally sits slightly away from the skin, helping the fabric feel cooler in warm weather. Even after travelling or spending the day on your feet, Crispaire maintains a fresh appearance with minimal creasing.

What makes it work

The cloth is woven using high-twist Merino wool yarns that create a resilient fabric with an open construction. This combination encourages airflow while allowing the cloth to recover quickly after wear, helping the suit retain its appearance throughout the day.

Best for: Business travel and destination weddings.

7. Royal Mile Plains

Royal Mile Plains is a versatile collection of lightweight plain-coloured fabrics that offers a timeless choice for everyday tailoring.

Why it's great in a heatwave

Royal Mile Plains is woven from lightweight worsted wool, and provides comfortable wear throughout spring and summer. If you want one suit that works across multiple occasions, Royal Mile Plains is a dependable choice.

What makes it work

The lightweight worsted wool construction allows air to circulate while retaining the structure and resilience for which wool is renowned. The result is a breathable cloth that stays smart and drapes beautifully, even during warmer weather.

Best for: Daily business wear, first bespoke suits and smart occasions where versatility is key.

8. Dormeuil Mohair

Dormeuil's Mohair collection blends premium wool with fine South African mohair to create a luxurious cloth renowned for its breathability and natural lustre. 

Why it's great in a heatwave

Mohair feels noticeably lighter and cooler than many suiting fabrics while remaining exceptionally resistant to creasing. This makes it particularly well suited to long summer weddings and formal events where looking sophisticated all day matters.

What makes it work

Mohair comes from the Angora goat and is naturally smooth and breathable. When blended with wool, it creates a lightweight cloth that holds its shape beautifully and naturally resists - as well as maintaining a natural sheen synonymous with formal tailoring.

Best for: Summer weddings, business wear and formal occasions.

9. Gostwyck Lightweight

For those seeking ultimate luxury, Gostwyck Lightweight showcases some of the world's finest Merino wool.

Why it's great in a heatwave

Woven from exceptionally fine Merino wool fibres, Gostwyck Lightweight delivers outstanding comfort during warmer weather and the elegance of premium tailoring.

What makes it work

The cloth is woven from rare Gostwyck Saxon Merino wool using Super 170's fibres. The fine fibres create an incredibly soft feel, while the long fibres allow a beautiful drape without sacrificing durability.

Best for: Luxury business tailoring and smart casual suits.

Last Thoughts...

As UK summers continue to become warmer, selecting the right cloth can make all the difference during a heatwave. While every fabric in this guide is designed to perform well in warmer weather, the best choice depends on how and where you'll wear it.

Understanding a few simple fabric characteristics, such as fibre composition, weave and cloth weight, can make choosing the right suit much easier. Investing in a high-quality cloth also means your suit will continue to perform season after season, maintaining its comfort, shape and appearance even through the warmest months.

If you're unsure which fabric best suits your lifestyle, our tailoring consultants are always happy to help. Book a consultation with King & Allen today and discover the ideal fabric for staying cool, comfortable and impeccably dressed all summer long.