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5 Key Styles of Waistcoat

A waistcoat is a waistcoat, right? Not quite!
In general, a waistcoat adds sophistication to any made-to-measure or fully bespoke suit. It serves both aesthetic and practical purposes, allowing you to stay smart without the jacket. Plus, it’s flattering, concealing around the middle and elongating in the torso for a taller look.
But there’s a real art in pairing the right waistcoat with your look in order to fit your form, suit the occasion, and match the weather! In this blog, we break down five key waistcoat styles, from timeless staples to modern statement pieces.
1. The Simplicity of Single-breasted


Features:
Single-breasted waistcoats pair well with both single-breasted and double-breasted jackets. Five or six buttons is most common when it comes to single-breasted styles. You can play around with either a notch, shawl or peak lapel - whichever style you prefer. Keeping the symmetry, a single-breasted waistcoat usually has a v-shaped neckline to match the popular v-cut hem.
Occasion:
From smart casual office attire, to everyday looks with chinos or jeans, the single-breasted waistcoat keeps you looking polished. No tie? No problem. It’s your go-to for a relaxed yet sophisticated style.
2. The Dominance of Double-breasted



Features:
The double-breasted waistcoat features two rows of buttons, often four, six, or eight. The traditional design usually has a straight bottom for a clean, structured finish. Most people pair a single-breasted jacket with a double-breasted waistcoat to focus the eyes on the centre piece, but a double-breasted jacket also works for a more formal look.
Occasion:
The double-breasted waistcoat is all about making an impact, which makes it ideal for a more formal look. Whether under a tuxedo or morning suit, it's a winner for occasions like weddings and galas.
3. The Clean Curve Horseshoe Waistcoat


Features:
The standout feature of the horseshoe waistcoat is its U-shaped neckline, offering a distinctive and sleek look. It can be single or double-breasted, and typically doesn’t have a lapel. The waistcoat features fewer buttons, which emphasises the curve, for a clean and contoured appearance.
Occasion:
The horseshoe waistcoat is a go-to for formal attire - popular for black-tie events, formal dinners and weddings. Pairing it with a pleated shirt and bowtie enhances sophistication by adding texture and refinement.
4. The Power of No Lapel


Features:
Removing the lapel achieves a simple, modern look with a minimalist edge. But don't let the simplicity fool you. You can jazz it up with bold fabrics, vibrant colours, iridescent finishes, a pop of colour on the buttons, or an interesting lining for that extra touch of personality. Check out our personalisation page for more ideas.
Occasion:
The minimalist nature of the no-lapel waistcoat makes it a versatile garment that can be dressed up or down and is perfect for hotter climates. Char Bailey, an LGBTQ+ and diversity activist, rocked her 3-piece iridescent green suit without a shirt during her holiday in Tenerife.
5. The Captivating Contrast Waistcoat


Features:
A contrast waistcoat is more of a statement look because it’s designed to stand out from the rest of the suit. They aren’t limited to one style and work across single-breasted and double-breasted suits. The contrast itself can be as bold or as subtle as you like. A well-loved option is using a different cloth in a complementary pattern to the jacket, or sticking to the same cloth in a fresh, harmonious colour. Additionally, it might be something more understated, like matching the colour of the buttonhole on the jacket. Be creative!
Occasion:
Perfect for weddings, formal events, or adding flair to a standard suit, a contrast waistcoat brings individuality to your ensemble.
Waistcoats aren’t all the same! Understanding the different cuts and features allows you to find your fit. A waistcoat will enhance any suit, and you can style it to complement your personality.
Ready to update your summer wardrobe with a standout waistcoat? Learn more about our bespoke waistcoats on our website, or book a free consultation to get started designing your suit.