How Should a Suit Fit? Advice from the Experts
A suit looks fantastic on anyone, whatever your age or size, but only if it fits well. The problem is: most men don’t necessarily know what a well-fitting suit looks like.
Many men are accustomed to wearing suits that don’t fit them, thinking that they look just fine. More often than not, it’s the trousers that are far too long, or the jacket that is too tight around the waist. The shoulders are often an issue too. And yet, so many guys have no idea that these things are a problem.
As bespoke tailors, we are experts in the subject of great fit. In today’s blog post, we will talk you through the specifics of what to look out for in a suit, illustrated by images of our very own customers, so that next time you need one, you’ll be well equipped.
How Should a Suit Fit?
A rough guide for the sleeve length is for it to meet the crease of the inner wrist. Exact sleeve length is a personal choice, depending on how much cuff you like to show. You should show at least some cuff beneath the sleeve.
The length of your jacket mainly depends on your height. If you’re on the shorter side, the jacket length should reach mid-crotch to make you look taller. However, if you’re tall, the jacket length should reach the fork of the crotch. If you’re of average height, aim for mid-to-lower crotch for perfectly balanced proportions.
The shoulders of a suit jacket should feel comfortably snug, with the end of the shoulder seam meeting the tip of your own shoulders. The shoulder should sit flat, without any rumpling, with the top of the sleeve hanging beautifully straight from the shoulder point, with no wrinkling at the top.
You should be able to button the top button of your jacket comfortably without any kind of unsightly pulling around the button. There should be a couple of inches of room at the waist, even on a fitted jacket, but any more than four inches means that it is a little big.
A suit looks fantastic on anyone, whatever your age or size, but only if it fits well. How should a suit fit?
The jacket collar should rest comfortably at the back of your shirt collar. It shouldn’t sit away from the neck or bunch up at the back.
The trouser waist should feel snug, but not restrictive. Regardless of whether you have belt loops, the trousers should stay up without assistance. Additionally, the back of the trouser should drape over your seat, without any pulling.
Whilst trouser length is personal preference, We recommend a single break on your trouser, which means one small crease at the front. Any longer can look messy. Keep in mind: the narrower your trouser, the shorter your trouser will need to be in order to sit neatly on the shoe.
A waistcoat should sit very close to the body, yet it shouldn’t feel tight and there should be no pulling around the buttons.
It is very important that the waistcoat is the correct length. It needs to cover the waistband of the trouser, with no shirt on show.
Naturally, the waistcoat opening varies according to the style of waistcoat you choose, however on a traditional, single-breasted waistcoat, we suggest that the waistcoat opening reaches to mid chest, meaning that you will be showing a good proportion of shirt, waistcoat and jacket.
How do your suits fit?
If you own a King & Allen bespoke suit, it will meet this criteria, however the same can’t necessarily be said for the suits you’ve bought off the peg. We suggest that, when you next wear them, you assess their fit using these guidelines.
If they’re nearly there, bring them to us and we can do some alterations to improve the fit. If they’re way off, it’s time to book in for a free, bespoke suit consultation.
Every man deserves to wear suits that fit him correctly.
If you struggle to get the correct fit off-the-peg, come and see us. We would love to make you a suit that you look and feel superb in!
At our free, no-obligation consultation, your tailoring consultant will talk you through every element of the style and fit, whilst noting your measurements and posture, to ensure that the suit will be exactly how you want it.