The Bespoke Overcoat

Nothing pulls an outfit together more than the addition of an overcoat. It's been a staple in the fashion landscape for years and has recently had something of a resurgence in the public imagination. Think Tommy Shelby in Peaky Blinders, Suranne Jones in Gentleman Jack and Benedict Cumberbatch in Sherlock.

The overcoat comes in many shapes and sizes but they are all defined by some similar style elements. Usually made from a warm, heavyweight cloth, such as wool or a wool/cashmere blend, they can be either single or double-breasted. They commonly feature a single rear vent and are cut to the knee or a bit longer.

The overcoat should make you feel confident and assured while you're out and about, keeping you warm without resorting to an ill-fitting anorak or bomber jacket. So, with that in mind, what are the main points to consider when having a bespoke overcoat made?

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THE FIT

An overcoat worn over a suit will need to be cut a little wider on the shoulders to accommodate the shoulder pad of the suit beneath. For the same reason, it will also need to be slightly longer on the sleeve, as the pad of the suit will raise up the overcoat and make the sleeve appear shorter. Finally, a little more allowance would be made in the body to accommodate the suit beneath.

FABRIC

To get that vintage look, like the Peaky Blinders coat, then you can't go wrong with a good-quality tweed. Tweed dates back to 18th century Scotland, when weavers created the dense fabric to protect locals against the harsh weather conditions in the Scottish Highlands. Nowadays, it's a style-must-have and comes in a huge range of colours and patterns, if you feel like something a bit more daring.