Tailored Mod Suits

The King & Allen guide to… Mod Suits

Mod suits are as much about a style, as they are about a specific cloth or cut.

Wander the Laines of Brighton on a sunny summer day or hang out outside Soho’s Bar Italia on a Sunday evening and you won’t see Mod style dominated by one specific garment (except maybe a parka if it’s parky) – you’ll see an attitude… Indeed, the tagline to seminal mod film Quadraphenia is, “A Way of Life”.

Because of this cultural freedom, the design of men’s mod suits are very much open to the taste of the individual. For example, they look just as good in a navy blue pinstripe as they do in a silver mohair.

Nevertheless, the following is a set of guidelines for the first time buyer (and some revision for the perennial purchaser).

Tip 1: Cloth

When it comes to choosing a cloth, we would advise going with your gut instincts. There are no hard and fast rules.

Mohairs have always been popular, for their reflective, two tone quality, and they come in a wide variety of colours and styles. Mohair is also extremely practical in that, despite it’s relatively low weight, it holds its shape well, making it perfect for all year wear with relatively easy maintenance.

However, some customers don’t like the dry handle (feel) of mohair (this is because it comes from a goat rather than a sheep), and instead opt for a worsted wool. The choice is down to the individual and your tailor will show examples of both.

Tip 2: Style

Mod jackets are cut relatively short: as a rule they should sit just below the widest part of the seat. 3 or 4 buttons is ideal to ensure a high cut collar, and jackets can be single or double breasted. We would recommend a narrow (7cm) notched lapel and slanted pockets. A ticket pocket is very popular on mod suits – but not essential. A double or single vent will look great but if you’re requesting the jacket to be ‘fitted’ we would recommend opting for the double vent so that the jacket sits neatly on the seat.

Mod Trousers should be cut slim against the leg and should rest gently on the shoes. Trousers should be un-pleated, but should have side adjusters as a nod to the 60s. These factors are also indicators that the suit is bespoke, as these options are not available in the shops.

Tip 3: Fit

Regardless of body shape and size, the suit should be fitted. Baggy or oversized mod style suits do not look good at all. The shoulders should sit squarely with no overhang, and the jacket should be tailored slim and close to the body (although the buttons should do up without creasing).

The mod look is ‘sharp’ and attention to detail is everything. Make sure you are very detailed with your consultant about what it is you want. We would suggest bringing in photographs of men’s mod style suits that you like, so we can work with you to create the perfect suit for you.

If you would like to arrange a free consultation, with no obligation to buy, please click here.

A small sample of our suits


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